Category Archives: sewing

July 5, 2010 · 12:34 pm

Three cheers for the red, white, and blue!

July 3rd. I’ve been invited to join some friends on the 4th for a very casual evening at their house. I recently swapped my “Sailor Betty” dress so I needed to figure out what to wear! My closet may be vast, but wasn’t spitting out anything red/white/blue and casual. Somehow, a red velvet party dress didn’t seem appropriate, you know?

My regular readers may recall that back in April, I had purchased some red-white-blue striped vintage fabric that was begging to be made into a summer dress. I bought some patterns, wrote a post, and then proceeded to do nothing about it. Now, on the evening of the 3rd, I remembered the yardage of striped fabric! It was getting late, but could I whip up a dress in the morning? I went through my patterns and decided on Butterick 5214, a reissue of a 1947 pattern for a halter dress, belt, and fitted jacket. The dress pattern itself is simple, but this would be my first attempt at making chevrons from striped fabric. Had I bitten off more than I could chew? I read all of the reviews at PatternReview and knew from the outset that I’d need to add length to the skirt. I could handle that. I just hoped that the fabric store would be open on the 4th so that I could buy the correct length zipper!

Come morning,Â I started cutting out the pattern and my fabric. I was trying to be extra careful with my cuts, so the stripes would line up perfectly. It took a while, but I finally admitted that the old fabric just wasn’t printed evenly! I had to keep refolding it to get each piece cut as closely as possible. But when I actually started sewing, things were looking pretty good! I wish I’d taken a little more time with the skirt front (center seam), but I’m generally pleased overall. The fabric store was indeed open so I didn’t have to shorten a zipper from my stash, and I finished off the halter straps with a vintage button from my mother’s (and once her mother’s) button box.

VoilÃ , completed dress by 3pm (with a few interruptions for Twitter and blip.fm):

It’s a bit gappy on top and I’ll make a couple of vertical darts to take up the slack before I tack down the bottom of the bodice lining, but it was close enough to wear for an evening with friends. I didn’t have time to make the matching jacket or belt. Yet! For the time being, I paired it with a wide belt which really didn’t “work” with the look, but I had to fetch my Flag Bag and head out!

photo by @jgamet

Detail photos of side darts and button:

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Filed under fashion, friends, holidays, sewing, vintage

June 9, 2010 · 11:15 am

mail order 8149

Doing a little research for 11 (eleven!) vintage aprons I’m preparing to list, and I came across this ad for mail-order sewing pattern 8149 in a copy of The Pittsburgh Press dated February 26, 1948. I love the shirring at the shoulders, the scalloped button detail on the bodice, and the asymmetrical gathers on the skirt. I could see this in a cotton print with eyelet ruffles as a very nice day dress, but also a lovely party dress if done up in a taffeta or crepe with rhinestone buttons.

Even with the unique details, it looks overall like a fairly simple dress to construct. 11 pattern pieces as best as I can tell, including the self-belt. Plus neckline facings. If I were a decent seamstress, I could work this one out. Actually, I could probably work this one out anyway, were I more inclined to do so. But it’s not as though I’m running around naked for lack of dresses in my closet!

I couldn’t find it at http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com nor in a Google search. I suspect that someone, somewhere, has a copy of it hidden in a cobwebby box in the far corner attic. And this is why we go to estate sales. :)

My First Sewing Project

Jessica over at kusine.com is hosting a pattern giveaway, and all you have to do to enter is comment on this post and tell everyone what your first machined sewing project was. I’m posting my “reply” here, however, because the sundress pattern is quite fetching but I already have too many unsewn patterns in my stash and I don’t want to dilute the pool of contestants.

So yeah, that first project. Are you ready for this? A pillowcase. Woo. Heck, does it even count? Three straight lines. No closures. To my credit (?), it was a pillowcase for a very large pillow. 30″x 30″ I think. And I was at some age that was measured in single digits. In retrospect, I’m pretty sure it was more my aunt’s attempt to keep me busy and quiet for a brief period of time than it was her burning desire to teach me a new skill.

That bright red pillow cover was also the last thing I sewed for a good 10 years. My mom made a good portion of my childhood clothing, and all of my Halloween costumes, but never taught me to sew. (She did teach me a blanket stitch early on, as well as cross-stitch. Mom is an avid embellisher.) My seventh grade home-ec class taught only cooking. My closest friends (and roommates) during my first two years of art school were fashion majors, and so it was in college that I bought myself an inexpensive machine and taught myself bad habits how to sew. My first project-from-a-published-pattern was a hooded, ankle-length cape, which I still have. I did a good job, if I do say so myself, and it’s sturdy and toasty warm. However, I selected a completely inappropriate fabric. I went with fleece, to which has adhered every fallen leaf and cat hair EVER.

It’s been many years since that first Brother came home with me from The Rag Shop, and while I’m confident in the area of relatively simple dresses and have cobbled together many Halloween costumes, I still have much to learn. I’ve yet to sew pin tucks. I’ve never tackled ruffles. The one boned bodice I made was not a particularly good fit. I should really, really take a class and make myself a good pair of custom-fitted pants. And unlearn some improvised shortcuts while I’m at it.

New-to-me sewing patterns!

I realize that I have a stash of patterns that so far remain unsewn. However, I recently bought myself some vintage red-white-blue striped fabric that is begging to be made into a summer frock and the patterns I have on hand simply aren’t appropriate for what I have in mind.

What do I have in mind, you ask?

Well, that’s actually hard to say. It’s a boldly-striped fabric which immediately made me think of a gathered skirt made from rectangular cuts. That is, if I want to go for a full-skirted look of the 1950s. I do love a full skirt, but I also love an efficient 1940s silhouette, although there isn’t quite as much of that in my current wardrobe. And what with this fabric being so patriotic and all, I thought that a 1940s look might be the way to go. With those two ideas in mind, it was off to Etsy I went.

A short time later the following items were en route to my home, from Vintage Rouge and Dawn’s Divine Finds (click images for larger views):

I was heavily leaning toward Sew-Rite 8045 (Oh, those turnback cuffs! That roll collar! Those not-eleven-buttons!) until Mikhaela posted the below pinafore pattern on SewRetro, and now I’m smitten with View 1.

Sweetheart neckline! Ruffles! POCKETS! I’ve found this exact pattern in a couple of places online, but those listings are out of my budget. It was a popular look at the time, so there are many options out there. It’s just a matter of me matching myself up with the right one. Oh dear, oh dear, so much candy in the candy store!

Of course, I’ll keep you all posted as (if?) the project progresses.

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Filed under collections, fashion, sewing, vintage

April 12, 2010 · 10:45 am

What I wore to VLV13

Because I have friends who are unusually interested in the contents of my closet. Because those friends were unable to attend Viva this year. And because I received a number of lovely compliments regarding my wardrobe during the course of the weekend, and perhaps some of those people are coincidentally readers of my blog.

THURSDAY

Thursday’s dress is technically vintage, but a 1980-something repro (by Steppin’ Out) of an earlier style. The print is typical â€™80s, though. The black patent handbag is “properly” vintage, although there is no brand mark. I originally bought it for the shop, but fell in love with the chevron and bow detail, which you unfortunately cannot see in this photo. Now I can’t seem to part with it. The shoes, by Miss Me, are thoroughly modern. The snood is from V-Male Detroit Vintage. This outfit and many that follow were worn with vintage RHT stockings by Queen Mary. I brought 4 sets of vintage stockings to VLV, but this one pair managed to get me through the whole weekend without a run, and I cherish them for it. Also because they fit, feel great, and have a nice, dark back seam.

Thursday evening’s dress is one of my all-time favorite vintage finds. Made by Sportlane Deb, the pale pink brocade bodice is decorated with rhinestones and pearl beads, and the dress has side-seam pockets. POCKETS. ::swoon:: I found it for a song in 2008 in the (gasp) Halloween section of a local thrift store. True, it has some popped stitches on one shoulder and a few small stains (which may very well come out with some OxyClean but I haven’t dared to try) but if anyone noticed them, they were polite enough to not say anything. The vintage Lucite purse is also studded with rhinestones, but the “privacy” hankie makes them difficult to see. I must find a better solution. The shoes, by Madden Girl, are silver slingbacks with Lucite heels.

FRIDAY

You may recognize Friday’s day dress from some of my previous posts. It was my first attempt at grading (and altering the silhouette of) a vintage pattern, and Nick likes to point out that, true to the 1940s motto of “make do or do without,” I made it from old bedsheets. Really cool, high thread count bedsheets, but bedsheets nonetheless. The crinoline is vintage, made by Cherie of California. The purse was purchased at Hobby Lobby, of all places. Belt by Accessories by Pearl (thrift store, probably â€™80s) and the shoes are by Go Max. I bought them a few years ago on eBay, but it’s a brand apparently carried by K-Mart!

The evening ensemble consists of a dress I bought from Boss Vintage for an OscarsÂ® party back in 2006 or 2007. Erin would remember which. Perhaps I should have taken this photo from behind, as the back of the dress has an eye-catching (and back-baring) slit, and the heels of the J. ReneÃ© shoes are hand-painted and studded with topaz-colored rhinestones. The gold lamÃ© purse is also vintage, and like the dress, unlabeled.

SATURDAY

Saturday’s car show dress is a modern cotton/spandex fabric construction by Moda International. I shortened the hem by four inches, and it still hits below my knees. The deep side slits are original to the dress (a gust of wind is displaying more leg than usual). The patch on the back is vintage, a gift from Nick who put the matching patch on one of his jackets. The sunglasses are by Ray-Ban, in a cat eye style called Lisbon (W0959). Be wary of vendors selling “vintage” Ray-Ban sunglasses: like this pair, some older styles are periodically brought back into production and may not actually be vintage. If the price is right and you don’t care how old they are, go for it. The shoes and belt are repeated from previous outfits. The cute fella is “Filthy” Rich, bass player for The Infamous Swanks. Photos by Nick, who borrowed a pro Canon from a friend.

The cheongsam was a thrilling find, as I’ve only before come across cheaply made exports. This vintage version is a beautiful heavyweight brocade, fully lined, and fits perfectly in the bust (just a little roomy in the waist). It came complete with a matching jacket, although it’s boxy and unflattering. I thought perhaps it was meant to be a male counterpart, but it has shoulder pads. If anyone has info to share about these, I’d appreciate it. The silver lamÃ©-encased-in-Lucite box bag is of indeterminate age. From the exterior, it looks every bit the mid-century part. The interior, however, is lined in vinyl and has a Made In China tag. So go figure. The satin shoes are by Chinese Laundry.

SUNDAY

Sunday’s swimsuit is by Catalina, and to see it sans gold capri pants (by Euro Linea, probably early â€™80s)Â and bamboo-heeled shoes (by Foot Candy) you’ll have to watch the video posted at iCNN. I show up for a mere second at the beginning, but it’s only 2:12 so go ahead and watch the whole thing. The sunglasses are by… um… well, I bought them at… shoot. I’ve had them for so long, I just don’t remember. They’re modern repros, I know that much.

My evening dress was meant to be my day dress, but the sun was nearly down by the time I left the pool party. I found it at an estate sale, and although it’s distinctly too big on me, I love-love-love it. I took in what I could from the side seams, barring removing and reattaching the skirt, and trust the belt (thrift store, probably 1980s) to do the rest. The dress was missing its original shoulder ties, but a helpful clerk at Hobby Lobby fixed me up with the perfect shade of satin ribbon. The purse is vintage, no brand mark, and the shoes are Candies.

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NOTE: If you’re a regular window shopper of my online store, you’ll recognize that (with the exception of Saturday) these photos were all taken IN MY HOME, rather than at Viva. This is because Nick does not have a camera, and I am still not comfortable handing mine to someone and saying, “Please, could you take a photo of me?” Because in my head, it is followed by a silently screaming “I THINK I AM SO AWESOME YES MY EGO IS HUUUUUGE.” Yeah, I have some confidence issues. Stop looking at me like that.

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Filed under fashion, friends, sewing, vacation, vintage, Viva Las Vegas